![]() ![]() I bought a used DR4-4 because of the lack of parts for the DR4, but wasn't aware of their change of heart on producing parts. Not sure if it's necessary on a Fairlane, but I would expect that it's pretty close. I also had to notch my tran tunnel crossmember to make room for the straight shifter rods for the V-gate. I posted about my Jerico installation in my Mach 1, so that may show you a couple of the changes you might have to make (link here if you want to check it out. I love shifting at the track with the Vertigate, but I can't compare it to the pistol grip because I've never used one.Įither way you go, you will have to cut a bigger hole for the shifter. I think the pistol grip would be easier to downshift because you don't have to reach over the shifter to pull up on the gate lever, but mine works for me. ![]() It's not the smoothest downshift, but it goes into gear solidly if you rev match. My Jerico has the clutch assisted sliders (not road race) and Vertigate shifter, and I can downshift on the street. I wanted something that could retain all the parts I had (Mark Williams driveshaft and stock crossmember). Same here on going with the Jerico over the G-Force. I am very happy with the G Force, but if the parts problem never happened, I would have kept the Jericos. I do like the fact that the G 101A has a "handcuff" to help keep the main and cluster shafts from spreading apart, especially in 3rd gear. The G Force is a bit heavier than the Jerico, as well as having a slightly taller main case. Both my Jericos and the G Force had similar gear ratios, so performance didn`t change, the G Force seems easier to shift, but that may be due to my G Force has the later "Pistol Grip" shifter, where both the Jericos had the older style Verti Gate shifters. So to locate the shifter where I wanted it, I had to order a different shifter mounting plate and rods from Long shifters, which is part of G Force. Also, unlike the Jerico, the G101A has just the GM trans mount pattern and position, so I had to modify my trans crossmember, as well, unlike the Jerico, which had multiple shifter bolt holes to move the shifter position, the G101A has a single MoPar style shifter mounting provision. Naturally, shortly after selling both Jericos, they changed their mind, and started making DR4 parts again! I did have to make a few changes to the car when I installed the G101A, like Dale said, I needed a new driveshaft, as the GForce was about 2 inches shorter than the Jerico (same 32 spline output spline though). I was lucky that a buddy had an extra mainshaft, but Jericos decision to turn their back on all the racers who were using their products, I figured I would buy a G Force G101A, rather than reward Jerico by buying a DR4-4. I broke a mainshaft in the Fairmonts Jerico, and when I called Jerico to order a new one, thats when they said they were no longer going to make any parts for them. A G101A should only require some minor floor pan and trans x-member modifications.I ran the older style Jerico DR4s in my Fairmont and 85 Mustang for 20 years, and I would still have the same Jericos, had Jerico made the wise (?) decision to deem the DR4 "obsolete", and chose to not supply replacement parts for them. The 5-speed (ala Doug Nash) required major surgery to the floor and t-bar x-member. Be aware that the G101A uses a T-10 bolt pattern and is a bit shorter too. ![]() My aluminum box is still on the bench awaiting a more tame build and the G-Force is ready to go in the car. Then we started adding weight back into the car, soon afterwards came the Monte Smith N20 kit, and suddenly we found ourselves needing something good for more than 650hp. In our case we wanted to upgrade to an aluminum case/tail, new 9310 gears, and my old super shifter was worn out so it made sense. They can be purchased reburbished from G-Force for around the same price as you would have in an a-833 if you started from scratch. If I were to stay with a 4-speed it would be a G-101A model. I built an all aluminum (bushed case) a-833 with face plated gears, billit retainer, all ARP Bolts, and a new shifter it was around 4k assembled at our shop.Ī few months later I scored a G-Force 5-speed for not a whole lot more than that. Passon and Brewers are also good to check with and can help steer you in the right direction. I'd call Liberty and talk to them directly if you are just in need of gears. I have yet to see a 9310 cluster gear although there are some floating around according to the elders. You can get 9310 alloy speed gears and have them faceplated by Liberty. ![]()
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